Welcome Waggin’

Dippity doo dah, dippity hey!  To borrow and somewhat change the line of the original song Zippety Doo Dah.  We’re actually talking about the dippity doo dah dog piles that have been percolating along all winter under mounds of snow in your yard.  If you are out there on a regular basis and do doo duty even in winter, then good on you.  If however you tend to put it off because - hey it’s darn cold out there, then read on.

It’s hard to get motivated to scoop in the dead of winter when there’s a blizzard and the temperatures drop to minus 40 with a wind chill of you really don’t want to know what.  So, that leaves you with the delightful task of finding the piles as the snow starts to dwindle.  This is one game of hide and go seek you would rather not be playing thanks a bunch.   And wouldn’t you know it, you are still finding partially disintegrated piles in June.

You might be asking yourself why bother.  Why not leave it until it does degrade?  First reason NOT to, would be if you have small children using the yard to play in.  The most urgent reason though, is that dog doo is a health hazard.  If left outside it can become a lovely place for flies to lay eggs and produce maggots, and parasites from other animals.  It can also be responsible for passing parasites to other animals (usually through eating) then passes through the food chain back to the dogs - and - in some cases, to humans.

In short, it’s way easier to do something about doo the minute it gets deposited.  You can use plastic bags sandwich bags turned inside out, garden trowels or fancy poop and scoop equipment to doo the duty.  Great, that means you can get it off your lawn, but what next?  Many townships and county bylaws classify dog feces as hazardous waste and will not let it be picked up by garbage collectors.

You might have to hit the landfill as they often have separate sections including one for hazardous waste disposal.  There are some dog doo scoop businesses who will come and clean up and do disposal as well - for a fee.  Some only clean up.  But if you really hate doing this, a service might be just what you need.

And now for something completely different!  Here’s another option for you, but you might have to check local bylaws first.  It’s a septic system for dogs - an underground septic system (tank).  All you do is drop the doo in the hole and the chemicals and enzymes in the tank break it down.  Now that beats the 80 bags of winterized dog deposits you collect every spring in plastic bags!

Short, almost non-existent hair coat - no grooming - right? Wrong! Even Weimaraners or Miniature Pinschers need grooming.They (and all their long-haired, curly-coated cousins) need grooming too.Nails need cutting on a regular basis (to prevent in-grown nails and infection), eyes cleaned (for tear stains), ears cleaned (for excessive wax build-up), teeth need checking (for cracks, chips of breaks) and anal glands checked (for infection or impaction).

Do you want to do this yourself?Depends how your dog feels about you poking in sensitive places. Or, take your dog to a Certified Groomer instead of trying to convince a squirming hairy bundle of hissy fit it’s okay to take those sharp nail clippers to their toes.

Let’s not forget about the “B” word either - BATH!Thankfully, bathing only needs to be done on an “as-needed” basis and depends on your pet (dry skin vs oily).Never use human shampoo as their skin is way more sensitive than ours.

Whew!Sound like more trouble than it’s worth?Consider this then - grooming, and stroking our dogs provides emotional and physical benefits for you and them. It teaches them what is acceptable behaviour and how to react to being handled by a stranger. Spend time teaching your dog these things at home through daily handling.

How to get them to sit still for nail clipping?Handle each paw daily,rub it gently then reward with hugs and treats.When they’re used to that, try a nail clipper on one nail at a time - more rewards. Poking in ears? Again, daily rub the ears, inside and out and practice with a cotton ball soaked in warm water to clean the outer ear canal. Teeth check? Run your thumb around the gums by lifting the lips carefully.Eyes? Use the cotton ball, warm water and soak first, then rub gently. Anal glands?Okay, this is an art that really needs demonstration - ask the Groomer or Vet to show you how.

Don’t want to groom your dog yourself - find a well respected groomer who’ll make your canine companion look like a million barks!

Don’t you just LOVE it? That terrible, rotten, permeating wafting odor brought into the house by your four footed friend? The “Oh my heavens what died in here?” kind of smell?

Ahhhh, right - it’s merely eau de dog - not bottled and sold on the shelves at your nearest store. (Thank heavens!)

Why do dogs roll in things that are best left - well, left alone. Simple answer is because they can. More complex answer can range from they are rolling right after a bath because they do not like the undogly scent of the shampoo to they’re advertising what they found to other dogs. More to the point is that it is likely instinctual behavior patterned on what wolves do to mask their scent.

Some mega fave things to roll in and take into the house are dead fish, bird doo (sticky, smelly and tough to remove), other dogs deposits and rancid garbage. Enough of the visuals here - but you get the idea. If it smells, stinks, is rank, rancid or totally gross, chances are guess who will roll in it. Can you stop this type of behavior? Not likely, but you can try. Thing is you have to be right THERE when the dog goes to roll in something icky.

How do you know they are going to roll? Easy, the close sniffing of the ground in one spot, the tight little circles, the hunchy shoulders and the about to be bent “because I am going to drop” knees. This is where you make that BAH sound, the one that stops them cold.

Try the tone of voice route, the icy “BAH”, and as the dog looks at you, call it in and praise and treat. Then beat it out of the area in case the treat didn’t distract their attention long enough. Remember, the tone has to be the one they KNOW means “Uh oh I am about to be in deep doo!” So if your dog does happen to roll in something best not discussed in polite company, then make sure they get into the bath SOON.

You have likely either heard stories about dogs who take their owners for a walk on a regular basis or have a dog that forges ahead of you on your walks. It’s no wonder your arms are way longer than they should be if this is what is happening. How do you stop it?

There are actually several ways to stop it, and several ways to mitigate what is happening. Frankly, the root cause of the problem needs to be addressed first rather than just using something that accommodates the problem but doesn’t work on a solution. More on that later in this article.

The Accommodators

The accommodators are head halters and there are two on the market that are pretty good - the Halti and the Gentle Leader. If you have to choose, pick the Gentle Leader. It has a simple design and offers good control. It is not a muzzle, although it may look like one because of the way it fits (sitting behind the dogs ears and around the muzzle). The two nylon straps connect under the chin. The premise behind the Gentle Leader is to control the nose - whence the nose goes, thus goes Fido.

Haltis are similar in principle, but more complicated, and have been known to cause spinal and neck injuries if your dog struggles.

The Correction Devices

There is one other item that rears its head up now and then, and that’s the Prong Collar (considered a correction device). Normally used on dogs with large thick necks, this collar looks like an instrument of torture. Some say it doesn’t hurt when the prongs pinch the neck. Owners have been bitten using this device and it is dangerous in the hands of someone who does not know how to use it. Bottom line? Do NOT use this collar on your dog.

Another correction device is the Choke Collar and it’s called that because that is precisely what it does - chokes. It has caused extensive trachea and neck injuries to dogs thanks to owners who did not know how to use it properly.

And The Root Problem Is?

The root problem is forging and that comes about because the dog was never taught basic manners. It is very easy to teach a dog to NOT do this. Use a buckle collar ONLY and a nice long leash (at least 6 feet). With the dog on the left side of you start walking. When the dog gets out in front of you rather than staying at your side, IMMEDIATELY turn an about face and walk in the opposite direction saying at the same time (dog’s name) - heel!

Just keep doing the switcheroo routine until your dog gets the message that s/he must watch you to follow you. It may take a few times to get the message driven home, depending on how stubborn a dog you have. However it’s well worth the time to do this rather than use devices that don’t really fix the basic problem. Once you have taught your dog to watch you and follow you, you will see an improvement in manners and less forging. Just keep up the good work and above all else, do this on a consistent basis.

You’ve no doubt read all about hypoallergenic dogs, how fantastic they are supposed to be if you have allergies. That they don’t shed, don’t have dander, and don’t cause your allergies to flare up. Unfortunately, this is just plain wrong on all counts. Hypoallergenic actually means to have a “decreased” tendency to cause allergies. It does not mean it eliminates allergy reactions, for “hypo” means LESS, not none.

The one thing people don’t seem to understand is that even hypoallergenic dogs produce allergens (dander), but because of the type of coat they have, they just produce LESS allergens. If you or anyone in your family happens to have severe allergies and/or asthma, they will still be affected by a hypoallergenic dog. So, just to repeat, there is no such thing as a NON-ALLERGENIC dog.

Let’s take a look at the kinds of dogs that produce LESS allergens that may be a good family pet for you. There are actually two coat types that produce less in the way of allergens: single-coated dogs and hairless dogs. Please note, that just because the dog is hairless does not mean it isn’t capable of still producing enough dander to bother a highly allergic individual.

Hairless breed dogs include the Xoloitzcuintle (what a mouthful for Mexican Hairless), the American Hairless Terrier, the Chinese Crested Hairless and the Peruvian Inca Orchid. You can check out any one of these breeds by hopping on the Internet and doing a search. Some of these dogs are very elegant and would be a joy to own.

Some single coated dog breeds include the Chinese Crested Powder Puff, Poodles of all sizes, Schnauzers of all sizes, the Portuguese Water Dog, Bichon Frise, Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier and other members of the terrier family. Other breeds that might work well for you would be Miniature Pinschers and Weimaraners. They both have a just about non-existent coat much like brushed fleece.

The other question then is what can you do about your allergies? There are a number of things you can do and here are a few of them. Yes, this is a lot of work, but once you have your dog and realize what joy and peace they bring, you won’t mind.

The first thing on your list is talk to an Allergist. Many of them understand your dilemma and can help you out with anti-histamine therapy for minor allergies. For the more severe allergies, you might want to try immunotherapy allergy shots. Use air filters. Remove carpeting, pet or not, it hangs on to everything in its fibers. Brush your dog daily, outdoors if you can.

Vacuum regularly to get the furballs the size of small cats out of the house. Wash all bedding the dog sleeps on - even yours, because we all KNOW where the dog really sleeps - in hot water.

Rinse your dog in warm water weekly. Don’t use shampoo, it adds to the allergen problem. This one thing alone can make a huge difference for you. About once a month wipe walls and floors with mild dish soap and water to remove dander build-up.

Do dogs have a tooth fairy? Well, no they don’t, but that doesn’t mean you can’t keep their pearlies white and clean, and well looked after. The yellow teeth you see on dogs are usually older dogs, or dogs that don’t chew enough to keep their teeth white.

Dogs do not have teeth when they are born, and won’t have until about 2 to 3 weeks. When they are about 8 weeks old, they should have a full set of 28 teeth (yes, there is some variation amongst breeds). Those would be the pre-molars, incisors and canines. Then at the age of 3 months old, they start to lose their teeth. (Ok, now you can bring in the Tooth Fairy).

Adult teeth actually start to appear within two to three days after the baby teeth fall out, and then, lucky you, comes several hairy weeks of your dog chewing everything that isn’t nailed down (and some things that ARE nailed down). And EVERYTHING is the operative word. They will chew, maul, mouth and chomp anything, and that includes: rubber boots, your shoes, underwear, the carpet, the wall paper, cat food, the cat, other dogs legs and ears, the furniture and - the list is endless. This is likely to be the most favorite part of your experience with your pup - yeah right!

When the adult set of teeth is finally grown in, your pup will have 42 teeth - 22 on the lower jaw and 20 on the upper, 12 incisors, 4 canines, 16 pre-molars and 4 molars on the upper jaw and 6 on the lower. Kind of reminds you of a kitchen garbuerator doesn’t it, with all those teeth?

Great, they now have a full set of teeth on deck, and you want to keep them clean. Here are three methods:

Method One: the rubber hood finger brush works great and is easy to use. Use ONLY toothpaste formulated for dogs. Open mouth, insert finger (brush) and gently scrub. If you start them young enough, they will get used to it.

Method Two: The RAW knucklebone or marrowbone. Do NOT cook bones as they get soft and can splinter. If the splinters go somewhere they are not supposed to, you could wind up with a choking dog or one with a perforated bowel. Raw works well, as the gnawing motion scrapes the gunk off their teeth. When the bone gets smaller, toss it out to prevent them from swallowing the whole thing. Don’t think they would do that? It has actually happened.

Method Three: Have the Vet scale the teeth. This is pricey, but if necessary, have it done then follow up with at home care.

A word about bones! Yes you are right, there are a lot of people who will not let their dog have bones. That is why the recommendation is use RAW. They are soft, do not splinter and are a primo source of calcium - not to mention entertainment. They’re messy as heck, so use only under supervision and only in a place that’s easy to clean - like the kitchen.

One look at the title of this article and many people would take great exception to the thought of crating a dog. Many think it’s cruel and unusual punishment. Others who have used crate training to bring up puppy KNOW it’s the best thing since sliced bread. If used properly, crates become safe havens for your canine mavericks and mavens.

Maybe you’re thinking that’s a lot of bunk, but if you do your research, you’ll find out using a crate to house train your puppy is a proven effective method to teach them when, and in some cases where not to eliminate, and where they can go to be safe and quiet. And if you don’t want a sharp set of teeth redecorating your kitchen, living room or bathroom while you are gone, then the crate is the place for your small horse with sharp teeth. Safe for your dog and safe for your house. If you’ve ever not crated a pup and come home to a mess, there is no point in disciplining them, as they do not understand what they did wrong.

Crates can and have been abused by people who do not understand their proper use. It is NOT a place to go for punishment. It is intended to be a safe and quiet place for the dog to nestle when you are not home and being its companion. Crating teaches and actually reinforces their natural den instincts. Your dog will grow up knowing the crate is safe, ok to be in, not a place for punishment and can be a great place to go when the humans in their lives drive them nuts.

How long do you leave a pup in a crate? Answer is for the shortest time possible if you can, realizing that sometimes life gets in the way. But pups should not be left in crates for hours on end, as it severely affects their socialization skills and is considered to be abuse. The general rule of thumb on crate times is no more than one hour for the age of your pup. For instance, one month old, one hour. Two months old, two hours. Three months old, three hours. You get the idea. This of course is just a general rule of thumb and may vary according to your dog.

Make sure the crate is big enough to stand up in and turn around. If not, that would be like you getting shut in a closet where you couldn’t move in any direction. If the crate is too big, you might find puppy dear has puddled in the corner. So stick to the den size feeling.

Guaranteed, if you crate train properly and effectively, your pup will grow into a fine canine citizen with great manners and clean to boot.

Shopping for special treats for your dog? Make sure you buy healthy treats made with natural ingredients. There are lots of treats on the market, but they’re loaded with sugar and fat. Instead, look for treats made from whole grains like oats or quality, single source proteins like chicken or beef. Believe it or not, fish is a terrific snack for dogs and it’s low in fat and calories.

Treats serve many purposes, positive reinforcement while training your pup, and simply “just because” you love them and want to spoil them. However, don’t let treats make up more that 10 per cent of your dog’s diet.

These days, with advances in the pet food industry, you’ll be able to also get treats that help keep Fido Dido’s joints healthy and even relieve symptoms of arthritis. The best thing - if in doubt - is read the labels and check the ingredients. Better yet? Make your own - and we’ve got a couple of the greatest recipes just for your and your dog(s).

Try these for a very happy pup! From our hearts and the private recipe book of Deija Vue the Dalmatian, and Ghost the Weimaraner.

Deija’s Delights

1/2 cup corn meal (if your dog is allergic to corn meal - substitute bran)
2 cups whole wheat flour or plain flour
1 tbsp powdered garlic
6 tbsps oil (vegetable or canola oil)
2/3 cup water or broth (the best is chicken broth)

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Mix all the ingredients together well and roll out to about 1/4 inch thick. Cut into bones or other shapes your dog likes. Bake 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool and store in a tightly sealed container.

Ghost’s Goodies

1 pound of pureed beef liver or chicken livers
2 cups corn meal or bran or oat bran
1 cup whole wheat flour
2 tsps powdered garlic

Spread mixture on cookie sheet in a thin layer. Bake at 350 for about 20 minutes. Cool and cut into small pieces. NOTE: these treats are extremely rich, so don’t give too many in one day.

If your dog scoots its bum across the floor, dragging itself by its front legs and rubbing its whole backside on the floor, or on the ground, you may have an anal sac problem. This isn’t always the case, as the dragging can also be caused by excessive skin around the vulva trapping dirt in the folds and causing itching, infection and irritation.

At any time, if your dog does this frequently, see your vet immediately. This can be a painful (infected anal sacs or rupture) and irritating problem for your dog if not dealt with promptly.

Back to the anal gland question. These sacs are located just inside your dogs’ anus to either side of the opening, and contain a really smelly, obnoxious substance. Generally speaking, most dogs empty their own sacs as they defecate. If they become blocked or irritated, your dog tries to fix the problem by scooting. Other signs to look for if there is a possible anal sac problem is the dog chasing its tail and licking its anal region and the fur around their tails.

How do you fix this? The anal sacs will need to be emptied/expressed. This is accomplished by either gently pushing on the exterior parts of the anus - think clock hand positions and aim for 4 pm and 8 pm. This isn’t the easiest job in the world and guaranteed your dog will squirm like the dickens when you try this. So, when all else fails, take your dog to the vet and have the glands emptied “inside” your pet’s rectum. Yes, you can learn to do this on your own, but the smell, messy liquid and the squirming usually mean the owner throws up their hands in defeat and has someone else do it.

Once the sacs have been emptied, the scooting may stop within a few days. But, do not be surprised if it doesn’t, and it’s common to have it done more than once. Also, be aware that scooting can be caused by other things, such as tapeworms, a back injury or ulcers near the anus. Bottom line is, always talk to you vet to get answers.

Those of you with dogs have all seen these “spots” in the grass every year.  They result from your dog(s) peeing on the lawn.  Since dog urine has such a high concentration of nitrogen (which means it also has a high Ph level) you’ll be getting these little fairy rings where the grass inside the circle dies and the ring grows like a hot darn.  Usually the rings come from females squatting.  Males aren’t as guilty of making rings because they pee on things at a higher level – trees, lawn chairs, gates, laundry hanging on the fence and even the corners of your house.

What can you do to prevent this?  There are actually food supplements and additives that, when given to your dog, will neutralize the acid in the urine.  Now this sounds like a good idea, until you realize that if you alter the Ph level of your dog’s urine, it can lead to some very serious consequences (bladder stones).  So, bottom line, it is way better to treat the lawn and not the dog.  And it can be as simple as merely soaking the spot your dog just peed on with water, diluting the nitrogen.

And what about the burnt areas that are staring you in the face on a daily basis?  Luckily, some of them will come back on their own.  But, you can re-seed the burnt area so long as you water really well before seeding and after, then cover with netting or clear plastic.  Oh, not because the dog will pee on it again, but because the birds will take off with your seeds.

You can also have a designated “do your business” spot.  This can be a small graveled area, a cement block, plain dirt or maybe even dead grass.  Train you dog to only go in that spot.  By the way, your dog would prefer loose sand or gravel. It feels better to them.  Take the dog out on a leash to the new designated spot and wait until s/he urinates.  Mission accomplished, praise lavishly for going in the right spot.

If they head to “greener” pastures just firmly say NO and head back to the new spot.  You might have to do this consistently for a few days in a row, and make it a fun occasion complete with treats – but it will be well worth it if you can keep your lawn green.  Always remember to keep the area clean of doo and hose it down on a regular basis.